A couple of Friday night’s ago, the JB and I both arrived home at the same time; both cold, hungry and tired. We needed a break. After looking at a few different sites we settled on Sanctuary at Palm Cove. The following Saturday we boarded our flight for ten days of sleeping, eating and relaxing by the pool in a climate where the overnight low usually sits at about 20 degrees, compared to the single digit figures we Southerner’s are getting at the moment.
Arriving late, we’d already asked for a recommendation about where to eat and were told that Il Forno do a great pizza. And they do. We wandered down the Palm Cove Esplanade and slotted into a couple of outdoor seats and quickly skimmed the menus before selecting the Bufala and the Primavera. Both were great; very tasty and well cooked. In conversation with the manager, we established that the thin base was not woodfired but rather stone cooked using traditional Roman cooking methods. It’s a little different to the Neopolitan woodfired cooking that we do at home. On holidays, we decided to indulge in dessert and shared a berry and white chocolate pizza which was sensational. All up the bill was about $60 which was great value.
Day 2 – Sunday
After doing a bit of internet research, the next morning we wandered into Vivo for some breakfast. Over a smoked salmon omelette and mushrooms on toast with coffee/hot chocolate we admired the sensational views and summer breeze of Palm Cove. Vivo became our holiday breakfast hangout.

After a day of walking and swimming we worked up a pretty good appetite and headed to the Esplanade for dinner at Choc Dee, Palm Cove’s Thai Restaurant offering. We started with the spring rolls (served with sweet chilli) that were mainly pastry with the tiniest amount of filling and the money bags which were little pastry parcels of meat and vegetables folded into money-shaped-bags and served with a ginger sauce. We followed this up with the adventurous (not!) chicken with cashews and coconut rice and prawn rice with egg and vegetables. All in all, not a sensational meal, but it was fresh and tasty enough. A couple of lemon lime and bitters later and the damage was about $80. Not too bad.
Day 3 – Monday
We booked ourselves on a boat ‘cruise’ out to Agincourt Reef on the outer ribbon of the Great Barrier Reef. The brochure promised that we’d become educated about the Reef and walk away as ‘reef warriors’. We did not. A ‘cruise’ it was not. A ‘wave-piercer’ boat crammed chock full of people gunning out to the reef it was. Upon arrival at the pontoon at Agincourt all I could think was ‘what time do we leave?’ The whole trip was geared to a young ‘party’ market – none of the ‘marine biologists’ and staff seemed to be aged over 25 and it felt like they were going diving and we mere passengers were just their excuse to get paid. Indeed one of them said that on this particular day the weather was the best it had been in over ten days and none of them could wait to get into the water. A ‘seafood lunch’ was included in our day which turned out to be some prawns and a ‘seafood medley’ that was cold hokkien noodles (Wokka style) with a ‘seafood highlighter’ and a marinara mix stirred through. There was no sauce. It tasted dry and awful. There were a couple of salads and a basket of bread. Disappointing. After lunch we walked through the ‘underwater observatory’ which filled a nice three minutes. Seriously, it was an underwater tunnel from where visitors could see some fish through dirty glass. It did not meet expectations, so we tried our luck on a trip on one of the semi-submersibles that go out for 20 minute trips around the coral. About 20 people were on ours and one of the ‘marine biologists’ provided a running commentary as we lurched through the underwater currents. None of the questions asked seemed to be answered by our host – one question was asked about the impact on the reef following the Chinese ship that ran aground in the Reef last April. He didn’t know. Parts of the trip were good, but as the JB summed it up, it was like watching footage of the Great Barrier Reef on television. 90 per cent of the coral is white/grey and all that beautiful colourful coral we see in pictures represents something like 10 per cent of the entire GBR. We saw some pretty, colourful fish like the foxfaced rabbit fish and a couple of turtles, which was pretty good. After this, we had nothing to do as neither of us were interested in scuba diving, so we went and sat on the boat again and hung out there. And we weren’t the only ones. There were at least twenty people who were sitting quietly on the boat reading or dozing. There really should be more activities for those who don’t want to scuba dive. We paid $360 to go out to the reef and to think there isn’t a museum type facility where you can learn about different fish or the impact of weather patterns on the reef seems a missed opportunity. Even something showing pictures of the various types of corals and the way they operate would have been educational. When we docked back in Port Douglas, we jumped on the bus and headed back to Palm Cove.


For dinner we headed to Bella Baci on the Esplanade. All the reviews we read before dining here suggested that this Italian and Seafood Restaurant was pretty good and it didn’t disappoint. We started with the Rucola Salad (poached pear on a bed of rocket leaves with parmesan) and the Ciabatta Trio (three pieces of toasted ciabatta with roasted capsicum, olive tapenade and sun dried tomato. Beautiful and so yummy. The JB opted for the seafood crepe and I went with the Zuppa di Mare – both sensational and we finished it off with a Brulee and Tirimasu. The service was great, the food even better.
Day 4 – Tuesday
Vivo for breakfast. We went for the old faithful eggs benedict and the sausage omelette with coffee/hot chocolate. Sensational. Really great. This feed energised us and spurred us into a long walk along the Cove and we returned nearly three hours later tired and thirsty. After retiring to the pool for an afternoon of sun-baking and swimming we were once again ready for some food. At the far end of the Esplanade was Portobello that promised authentic Italian food. We shared a ‘Pizza for a Friend’ which was an oily base that was too sweet, with roasted pumpkin, fresh rocket and parmesan cheese. Good flavours that should work, but the oily taste was overpowering. The spinach and ricotta agnolotti was a five out of ten and the grilled chicken Ceasar salad featured limp lettuce and too much dressing. Neither of us were satisfied so we opted out of dessert and as we went to pay our bill ($65) noticed that the people on the next table had left without finishing their meal. So it appeared that we weren’t the only ones not happy.
Day 5 – Wednesday
Vivo for breakfast was once again wonderful. Over eggs benedict and hot cakes with coffee and hot chocolate we saw in Wednesday. We also tried Vivo’s Sunrise Smoothie which was coconut milk blended with seasonal fruits and a refreshing drink in such a warm and tropical climate. We were so happy with Vivo breakfast that we headed back for dinner. We tried the set menu option which was two courses and a glass of wine for $39 per head; we opted for San Pellegrino in lieu of the wine and over pumpkin fettucine and seafood paella. The pasta was above average but the paella wasn’t paella; more like rice with seafood. I didn’t mind too much because the flavour was pretty good. For dessert we opted for a pear crumble and chocolate brownie. Again, they were okay. If pushed, I’d say this was the one meal that let Vivo down during our stay; when you consider that we ate there up to nine times during the week, I think this is pretty good.
Day 6 – Thursday
Breakfast at Vivo; more eggs benedict and smoked salmon omelette with coffee/shot chocolate and sunrise smoothies.
After a day by the beach and pool we decided to go to El Greko, which is obviously Greek cuisine. Because we were pretty hungry and there was a bit to choose from we opted for the ‘feast menu’ which included home made dips with pita bread, saganaki and dolmades followed by a selection of chargrilled meats and seafood that was finished off by some baklava. The food was delicious! Fresh, tasty and moorish. My only real criticism is that there wasn’t much of anything; the servings were quite small and it wasn’t enough to fill us up. The three dips, saganaki and dolmades were fine, however the chargrilled plates were two lamb cutlets, and a couple of chicken skewers and a couple of pieces of octopus and grilled fish, which wasn’t much for the $80 we paid. We sat outside in the platia section of the restaurant which was quite pleasant. There was a lovely little water feature in the garden and right next to our table some basil was growing which smelled beautiful. I would definitely go back, but would order something different that would leave us feeling more satisfied.
Day 7 – Friday
We skipped our Vivo breakfast to join a Food Trail Tour throughout the Atherton Tablelands. We joined another six people and the tour leader (Warrick) on what was a great day of touring around farms and food producers in the tropics. We started off at Maloberti Coffee farm where over an espresso, 84 year old Bruno and his daughter Maria gave us a tour of the processes they use to grow and roast their coffee. It was like stepping back in time; a fantastic experience that reminded me of the Greek villages that my grandparents once lived in.

Next stop was at the De Brueys Winery where we tasted some of the tropical fruit wines that are produced locally. We’re not huge wine drinkers but it was a great to learn how this husband and wife team have achieved their success.
After this, we stopped in at the O’Meara macadamia plantation where Greg and his wife Wendy grow macadamia nuts under the Wondaree brand. We really enjoyed getting out on farm with Jack the dog, and having a look around and hearing about his production techniques. Greg provided some great insights into the challenges of farming macadamias. Interesting to learn that he’s completely reliant on bore water and that he’s currently working with a lab to introduce natural pest control. We bought a heap of macadamia’s and had a great time.
Next stop was lunch.

After lunch we headed to the Gallo Dairy where they also produce cheese and chocolate from the milk their cows produce. Gallo is one of the few dairy operations in Australia that are using robot type systems in their milking sheds. This way the cows make their own way into the dairy to milk when they’re ready (usually incentivised by food/water) rather than being herded through two or three time per day as per traditional milking techniques. Farmers have the ability to undertake readings per cow and obtain specific production data per cow which is amazing development.

We drove on stopping off at the Curtain Fig Tree for a bit of a rest and leg stretch after eating so much food. This tree has been growing and grafting for up to what is believed to be 500 years. Sitting amongst rainforest it was a nice little break.

Our final stop for the day was at the tearooms at Lake Burrine where we were provided with scones and tea/coffee to finish the afternoon off with. Sitting at the tea rooms was lovely and peaceful. We also wandered up a walking path that led to twin trees that are thought to have been there for up to 1,000 years. The girth of each tree is about 6m.



And so ended our foodie tour. The day was sensational; the host Warrick is a fountain of knowledge and shared so much of his knowledge with us along the way. If anyone is in the area, I totally recommend this tour, it’s well worth the $150 each. Two thumbs up.


After such a long day (we didn’t get to Palm Cove until well after 6pm) we weren’t in the mood for anything too fancy so it was a quick trip up to Il Forno which again did not disappoint.
Day 8 – Saturday
A late breakfast at Vivo after walking around the Cove, followed by another afternoon by the pool. Beautiful. On the food tour we’d purchased some lovely cheeses and chocolates from Gallo and so we had afternoon tea in our lovely accommodation, which did I mention had a full European kitchen? Not that we used it.
We finished our day by once again going to Bella Baci for dinner. A seafood platter, Zuppa Di Mare, Pannacotta and Tirimasu later and we headed home.
Day 9 – Sunday
At Sanctuary, visitors can book rental cars on site, and so considering we were nearing the end of our break, we thought we might as well hire a car and head into Port Douglas. A couple of people had mentioned that the Sunday markets were worth a look. So about 8.30-ish we headed in. We parked and wandered up the main street of Port Douglas which we weren’t that impressed with. It looked pretty tired and like a backpacker destination, so we headed into what we thought looked decent – Harrison’s – for breakfast.
We both ordered eggs with spinach, mushroom and avocado on toast. Nothing unusual right? Well the strangest thing was that our breakfast came out on about 8 plates/dishes. Our eggs came out on one plate each with fresh tomato. Nice. Then the waiter came out with two dishes of avocado, one big dish of mushrooms, one big dish of spinach. He left the table and we surveyed the table and giggled. Then as I wondered where the bread was, here came the waiter carrying two heavy chopping boards, each featuring two pieces of toast. I kid you not, it was ridiculous. I’ve never before ordered such a typical breakfast and had it presented in such an unusual way. The crepes with spiced ricotta caught JB’s attention and he decided to finish the breakfast off with those. We wandered how many plates would arrive to the table. Fortunately just one, and although I was too full to eat anything else, I tasted the spicy ricotta and it was interesting; as though there was cinnamon, sugar and a marzipan type flavour.
After brekky we headed to markets which I have to say were pretty ordinary. Lots of hippy beads (and hippies) and other craft stuff. We only lasted about 20 minutes. The warmth was beginning to be felt so we cut our losses and headed back to car. As we left Port Douglas, we noted that there was bumper to bumper traffic coming into Port Doulgas – literally all the way back to the highway. It was a car park and so we were pleased that we’d gotten into town and back out without the traffic delays.
We stopped off at the Rex lookout on the highway which provided some beautiful views of Ellis Beach.


After our last afternoon by the pool we contemplated where our last dinner should be and settled on Vivo. After missing our breakfast there that morning, we thought we’d better go for our daily fix. And what a great choice. We started off with one of the best antipasto platters that I’ve ever eaten. Artichokes, white anchovies, olives, dips and other yummy goodies with warm bread. Yellowfin tuna with Polenta and roasted eggplant along with spinach linguine were sensational. Dessert was a decadent chocolate tart (20 mins waiting time for anyone interested) and a banana tart. Each were served on long platters, beautifully presented and so tasty – it was really the best way to finish off a great week of eating the relaxing.
Such a great break – a wonderful location and highly recommended for anyone in need of some heat in a beautiful picturesque location.